A lot of people frame their walls with thin wood, like 1 x 2s, to save space. I wanted full depth walls so I could use a higher R factor insulation, like what is used in homes, and for the ease of running wire. The downside is the weight is increased significantly, so it wouldn't be feasible to do this in a smaller van (personally.) My truck's GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is 11,000lbs - 7,000lbs on the rear axle, so I didn't worry about the weight.
Originally I had created small mini headers for each stud cavity so I could toe-nail the stud into something, but I eventually just screwed the wood studs straight to the metal studs in the wall and they have held up great. It was much stronger and allows for the normal flexibility of the metal walls like they're designed.This has worked great so far - wood studs absorb vibration which worked great for the large glass window. I was originally going to add neoprene vibration strips between the window and the wood studs, but it seems to have worked fine without it. The concrete underneath the studs hasn't shifted and I honestly forgot about it until right now. That's the goal!
I created a small pilot hole in the metal stud first and used long screws to reach through to the stud. |
This is an old photo of the metal studs; Here you can see how they're hollow. I placed my wood studs next to the hollow side of the metal studs (since those rivets were in the way on the other side). |
I've seen other box trucks that are made with different types of steel studs - It's likely your studs will also be hollow, but I've seen them wider than 1.25inch before.
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Removing the wood panels; What's the frame look like?
The beginning of framing: How I used concrete to prep my walls for wood studs!
Putting up the wall studs, floor studs, and cutting the metal to the outside!
Putting in the Giant odd-shaped Window
Flooring OSB, Insulation, and Hardwood
Creating a Permanent Wall out of the Rollup Door
Let there be light - Build and install your own skylight
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